Climbing, Daily, FitFluential, Fitness

Throwback Thursday: Climbing edition

18 Comments

If it wasn’t for my brother and Leo, his high school buddy, I would have never become a climber. 19 years ago, Leo and his family opened the climbing gym back home in Newfoundland Canada. From the beginning, when they recruited their friends to help build Wallnuts, I watched. I don’t recall much of it, but I do remember the warehouse transforming into the unknown. I didn’t have any interest in it back then, but I went to scope it out a few times.

My brother didn’t bother to climb much, but I went in for their daily kids camp and climbed til my hearts content. While I was visiting Newfoundland for five weeks this summer, I looked back on a few old photo albums I had as a kid and came across this oldie.

Wallnuts1995Shoes, chalk bag, and a harness — all rentals. This was me at the kids camp in 1995, the first year the climbing gym was opened. Umbro shorts and all, I am about to top out on my favourite wall in the gym: the roof. Wallnuts has since renovated their walls, including eliminating my favourite roof and looking at expanding to another location, all signs of growth.

My first pair of climbing shoes were the 5.10 MoccAsym’s. But the one’s to write home about were my second pair of climbing shoes, the La Sportiva (now men’s) Miura lace-up’s. An aggressive shoe with the perfect heel cup, amazing for heel hooking, and having fun at comp’s ;)RockFall05

highball-bouldering

orange-hair-bouldering

frontpageThroughout the years I had a few one-on-one coaching sessions with the guys, where I began to climb harder routes, how to climb quietly, when to chalk up on a route, and make the routes more efficient on my body to not tire myself out too much. Years later, I got the guts to get my lead climbing course done. I was terrified I wouldn’t be able to lock out the figure 8 belay devices, and ATC’s. I got used to it, I did the course and from there I started climbing lead confidently.

After 19 years of climbing, can you believe I am still afraid of heights? I suppose, that’s a good thing. I don’t want to be too daring or bold—it’s not in my personality. I like to play it safe. When I boulder at my new climbing gym here in California, I often down climb the boulder problems because falling is simply too spooky for me. The bonus side of that is that I’m perfecting my technique each down climb, gaining more endurance with the static moves I do.

I have a many awesome memories of climbing at Wallnuts, and I’m so happy for the experiences I had while I lived in Newfoundland.

Continue Reading

Climbing, Daily, FitFluential, Fitness, Health, Photos

History of my climbing shoes

1 Comment

I don’t know why I put myself through the pain of buying my climbing shoes three sizes too small. The recommended amount is that you go down 1½—2 sizes. Yet I chose 3. I can’t go back now, because my feet are used to it!

Have you ever tried indoor rock climbing? This is a really old photo of me climbing lead back home in Newfoundland. I won’t tell you how old exactly because I feel old even thinking about how long ago it was. climbing leadIt’s such a great workout and doesn’t even feel like you’re working out until you’re done. Because it’s SO FUN to climb!

Back home my friends are all climbers. It’s how I’ve met all of my friends in Newfoundland. I miss them all and can’t wait to go back in June to see them.climbing back home

My first pair of climbing shoes I picked out on the recommendation of a friend, back in 1995 when I first started climbing. They were they 5.10 5.10 moccasym’s.

Me and my friends climbing shoes back in 2003:climbingshoes

I made them work, but they were really a basic shoe and not the best fit. Every time I came down off a climb there was air between the arch of my foot and the shoe that it made a farting noise. Talk about embarrassing, especially being a young teenager at the time. That farting noise? No man it wasn’t me.

I had them resoled a few times to get a sharper edge, and of course because the rubber was wearing thin. A few years later I knew I wanted something more aggressive for heel hooking. A shoe that would stay on my foot, and fit my feet better. I did a lot of researching and ended up purchasing the La Sportiva Miura’s back in 2004. Which ended up being a unisex shoe at the time. Now, the green one’s are the men’s version and the women have their own Miuras (in white). I loved using the miuras because it form fitted to my small heel. The edges were incredible and the way I performed on the bouldering and climbing walls were a world of difference compared to the 5.10 moccasym. katana miura

I had been eying the katana climbing shoes by La Sportiva a few years after I purchased the miura’s. But it didn’t make sense to buy new climbing shoes because at that time I was living in Ontario, an hours drive from a climbing gym and not climbing as much as I would’ve liked.

Fast forward to late summer 2011 when the new climbing gym opened up in my city. I took up climbing again after a few years break. December 2011 I entered a boulder comp, this is one of the photos my Boyf took of me on the wall :)boulder comp

In 2012 I took a “break” and didn’t really climb too much. This year I’ve amped it up and I’m climbing 2-3 times a week. Definitely not as frequent as I used to go (5-6 days a week) because I have two loves. Climbing and CrossFit. So something’s gotta give.

My mirua’s are now 9 years old, have never been resoled and it was due time to purchase another pair. Finally, the katana’s! My boyf ended up buying the Katana’s for me for my birthday.katana in box

Super pretty right? I think blue is my favorite color lately. I’ve been buying a lot of it.climbing shoes

I went into MEC and tried them on for the first time. I knew they weren’t going to be an aggressive shoe like the mirua, but I was okay with that. What about the heel hook and the fit of the shoe overall? It’s definitely a different shoe than I’m used to. I bought the same size of Katana’s as I had in the Miura.katana

I was biased about the Katana’s and wanted to buy them regardless. I had my eyes on them for years. I’ve used the Katana’s twice already and while it’ll take a while to break in, I’m overall pleased with it. The heel hook is not the same as the Mirua, the shape of the heel cup is different at the backside. But that is something I”ll have to get used to.

Have you ever tried climbing?

If you do climb, what shoes do you own?

Continue Reading